|
Leopard Gecko
Care Guide Introduction
Leopard geckos are nocturnal lizards belonging to the
Eublepharinae subfamily of the family Gekkonidae. They are
robust geckos with relative large heads and a thick, fat-filled
tail. The belly is white while the natural upper part is pale
yellow to brown with black leopard-like spots. Babies have broad
black and white bands instead of spots. The skin is covered with
numerous tiny wart-like tubercles, giving it a rough feeling.
Their natural habitat includes the desert and dry savannah areas
of Southern Central Asia.
Leopard geckos make interesting pets. Right around the world
thousands of these geckos are kept and bred and are available at
various pet shops. When their basic husbandry requirements are
met, these geckos are extremely hardy and a pleasure to keep.
Leopard Gecko Development
Hatchling / baby (day 1 to 4 months), juvenile (4 to 18 months), adult
(18 months and older).
The average lifespan of a Leopard gecko is approximately 25
years.
Leopard Gecko Housing
Vivarium Size
A single Leopard gecko can be housed in an area as small as 30 x
30 cm / 12 x 12 ". One or two Leopards can be housed together
in an ADDIS® (35 x 25 x 15) cm / (13.7 x 10 x 10) " container with
the correct setup. A 10 gallon / 30 -50 ℓ / (61 x 23 x 33) cm /
(24 x 9 x 13) "
tank or
aquarium, a small reptile
cabinet or
cage
"Pal pens™ "or "Desert dens™ " can also be used to house one to
a few geckos. The floor space should increase with at least 25%
for every gecko added after that.
Leopard Gecko Substrate
Good bedding substrates include newspaper, butcher / brown
paper, astroturf and carpet. Inappropriate substrates such as
sand, egg shells, corn cob and any sized gravel or pebbles can
give problems with ingestion and subsequent impaction. Pieces of
driftwood, bark or rocks can be used for terrarium decoration.
It is essential to supply adequate hiding, such as a closed hide
box, for geckos to stay and sleep during the day. Moist peat
moss or moist vermiculite should be used as substrates in these
sleeping areas for the gecko to stay cool during the day and for
normal shedding to take place.
Leopard Gecko Maintenance
Daily
Feeding, cleaning food containers, replacing water, poop
scooping and removing old food residues.
Monthly Vivarium cleaning and substrate replacement. Cleaning and
sterilization of cage decorations and equipment.
Yearly
Inspection of all electrical equipment, plugs & switches should
be done twice a year.
Leopard Gecko Environment
Leopard Gecko Temperature
Leopard geckos are ectothermic (relying on external heat sources
to keep their body temperature at a suitable level) and
poikilothermic (having a variable body temperature). Under tank
heating such as a commercially available
heat pads / heat
strips or heat
lamps should be used as external heat source. This equipment
should be placed in such as way to only emit about a third of
the floor surface of the terrarium and should be separated by
the (secured) substrate to prevent direct contact with the
lizard.
Leopard geckos will then thermoregulate by moving towards or
away from the heat. The temperature should be in the range of 25
- 32 ºC / 77 - 90 ºF during the day where the heated end is the warmest. The
temperature can be allowed to naturally cool down room
temperature at night. Temperatures should be measured by using
a thermometer directly on top of the substrate.
Leopard Gecko Lighting
Leopard geckos are nocturnal (night living), meaning they hide
away during most part of the day.
When terrariums are used for displaying purposed, any non-heat
transmitting light source like energy saving light bulbs or
fluorescent tubes, that will not affect the environmental
temperature, should be adequate during the day. Some people go
as far as installing a night light that would not affect the
normal behavioral patterns of these geckos. These lights are
quite expensive, but will enable you to observe and appreciate
these animals during the darker periods as well.
Leopard Gecko Day Length / Photoperiod
All lights should be on for about fourteen hours per day. Commercially
available Leopard gecko electric timers can be used to automate the light
cycle.
Leopard Gecko Feeding
Crickets and
mealworms should
be the main foodstuff fed to Leopard geckos in captivity. Other foods include
include Dubia
roaches and other feeder
cockroaches, Phoenix
worms, waxworms,
silkworms,
Trevo worms
and sometimes pinkies / nestling mice. Baby Leopard
geckos
need small to medium sized insects to start off. Food should be
gradually increased to adults. If the gecko is shy,
leave the insects until the next morning. Grasshoppers should
generally not be fed because of their hard exoskeleton. Fly ants
can be collected annually and be fed. Feeding should preferably
take place within the terrarium where the animal is used to its
immediate temperature.
Feeder insects should always be gut loaded with
appropriate mineral / vitamin supplements and should be dusted
two to three times a week with a calcium / vitamin D3
combination powder. Mealworms, waxworms and pinkies are good
sources of fat. Because of their fat tails, Leopard geckos can
consume a lot of fat and store it for future emergency use. An
ad lib supply of powdered calcium / vitamin D3 supplement as
lick, should be supplied in a small shallow dish or lid for
additional calcium needs.
Although Leopard geckos are desert reptiles, a shallow water
container with clean fresh water should always be available.
Leopard Gecko Handling
A Leopard gecko can be picked up by gently scooping your hand
under its belly while supporting the body with the other. Let
them rest in your palm with your fingers gently curled over the
back.
Leopard Gecko Health
Regular health inspections with a reptile friendly veterinarian
are vital in the continual health of your pet. Try to bring a
fresh faecal sample, sealed in an airtight ziplock bag, with
your reptile to the consult room.
Leopard geckos are certainly one of the hardier gecko species in the
pet trade today, but as with any captive kept lizard they are
very dependent on the correct husbandry and diet to thrive.
Because their basic terrarium setup is extremely simple, the
most common husbandry related problems are incorrect
temperatures and calcium deficiency with or without subsequent
substrate impaction. Too low temperatures will cause a decrease
in appetite, stunted growth and may lead to morbidity and even
mortality. The most important dietary problem is inadequate
feeder insect preparation and incorrect
Leopard gecko supplementation. Incorrect calcium
/ vitamin D3 supplementation will almost always end up as
metabolic bone disease (MBD) or “hypocalcaemia”.
Other Leopard gecko health problems include gut parasites and physical
injuries. Consult your reptile friendly veterinarian or
herpetologist if any of the abovementioned problems occur.
|